The cave was discovered by accident in August of 1742 by workmen erecting a bench in a butter market in the Merchant House, which has since been demolished. A millstone was found in the ground, which when lifted disclosed a vertical, well-like shaft, about 2 feet (0.6 m) diameter and 16 feet (4.8 m) deep. Toeholds had been cut in the chalk on opposite sides to form steps. A small boy was "volunteered" to make the first descent. It was found that the cave was more than half filled with earth and "debris" .
Present day vi
sitors to the cave will notice that the dome of the cave has been bricked over and that there is a grille, in the pavement above, through which light penetrates. When the cave was discovered, however, the dome above was complete and partly tiled.
It was said to have been within a foot (30 cm) of the surface of the road. Also noted was the existence of what is now called the East Shaft, an opening then almost closed by several courses of clunch blocks painted red to look like bricks. Only two and in some places three courses now remain. It is believed to have been an air vent .
In the expectation of finding buried treasure the shaft was enlarged and the cave was emptied quickly, uncovering the carvings in the lower part of the chamber. There was no scientific archaeological investigation made at the time but according to the Rev. G. North who visited the cave shortly after its discovery the contents included, apart from earth, some decayed bones and a skull, fragments of a small drinking cup and a small unmarked piece of brass. The millstone, which covered the entrance, is now in two pieces, one forming the last step of the present entrance, the other lying alongside. The original entrance is closed and now lies under the road.
The cave has a cylindrical lower part about 17 feet (5.2 m) diameter and 10 feet (3 m) high decorated with low relief carvings of medieval appearance some of which were originally coloured. At floor level there is a raised octagonal step surrounding the floor about 8 inches (20 cm) high. The upper part is bell shaped, making the total height of the cave 25 feet 6 in (7.7 m). Between the two parts, for most of the circumference there is a frieze marked in a diamond fashion and the diameter above this is 18 feet (5.5 m). The upper part also contains the original north entrance and the east shaft. The shape of the cave is thought to be modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
Early visitors to the cave came down the original (north) entrance with the help of ladders but in 1790 the present entrance was made by the owner of what was then called the Town House on the opposite, north side, of Melbourn Street. He was a bricklayer by the name of Thomas Watson and in the cold winter of 1790 there was nothing for his men to do. They were set to work cutting the 72 feet (22 m) long tunnel between the Town House and the only place in the cave wall not covered with carvings. Mr. Watson was able to charge 6 pence for each visit, an appreciable sum in those days. He also effectively took over the cave and ever since then the cave and house have been in common ownership as "The Cave House and Estate" .
Examination of the structure of the Cave indicates that there is evidence that there was a wooden part-floor just above the frieze. What may be beam slots can be seen under the entrance and in the diagonally opposite part of the wall. An investigation of part of the floor in 1976 found a post slot, which might have supported the floor above. It has been suggested that the structure was a star shaped platform supported on four posts held in position by struts wedged between the platform and the cave wall. Such a structure would have given access to the line of large niches at a level about 13 feet (4 m) above the cave floor. These niches were clearly intended for storage but for what there can be no certainty. Around the base of the cave there is a raised octagonal step, badly worn in places at the time before the railings which follow the line of the octagon, were fitted. The step, which is about 8 inches (20 cm) deep and too low for sitting, was probably used for kneeling while contemplating the carvings. A raised step of this type is common to round churches of the Templar period, such as the Temple Church in London or the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (the Round Church) in Cambridge.
The carvings in the cave include four saints known to have been revered by the Templars. Below the original entrance is St. Christopher, patron saint of travellers, with the child Jesus on his shoulder and staff in hand. Moving to the left high up on the west part of the wall is St. Katherine for whom the Templars had a special regard as it was on St. Katherine's day in 1177 that they had a notable victory over the Saracen Saladin. Farther to the left is St. Lawrence who was martyred on the gridiron. Next is the figure with drawn sword said to be St. Michael or possibly St. George, patron saint of England who in symbolic terms saved the lady (the church) from the dragon (the devil or the oppressor). St George's sword points to the twelve apostles with Judas the small figure at the back towards the right-hand end of the row.
The large panel on the left of St. Christopher represents the Holy Sepulchre having a damaged figure of Christ awaiting the resurrection above the large niche on the left. Mary Magdalene, or an angel on the right-hand side sits on the stone rolled away from the entrance. The dove and the hand above represent the Holy Spirit. The niche below probably held a lamp.
The long row of figures below includes both men and women and although none can be identified those marked with crosses are possibly saints and those with hearts are martyrs. The two small figures below St. Katherine are Richard I (Lion Heart) and his queen Berengaria whose crown is shown floating above her head as she was never actually crowned Queen. The long vertical cross on their left is a branched or floriate cross and represents the high altar.
Beneath St. Lawrence is a figure with upraised arms, said until recently to be King William of Scotland. The letters WR marked on this figure are unlikely to be original. He has now been positively identified as King David the writer of the psalms. A similar figure appears at the head of a 13th century illuminated manuscript of Psalm 69, now in Trinity College Library, Cambridge, where David is shown rising from the water. Psalm 69 is a plea for help and a lament about being misunderstood and it may be a reflection of the position in which the Templars found themselves at the end of the 13th century.
The two figures close together, one with a repaired head, to the right of the damaged section of the wall under the original entrance, may be all that remains of a known Templar sign, two Knights riding the same horse. This sign appears for example on Templar seals and was an illustration of the name they gave themselves - The poor fellow soldiers of Christ.
Elsewhere in the cave are Calvary scenes with Mary and John and a group showing the Holy Family but uncertainty surrounds the remaining figures in the cave. There are several large niches among the carvings, which must have been for relics or lights.
The graffiti found in the dungeons in the Chateaux de Chinon included the Palestinian axe head below the Calvary scene by Richard I and again at the bottom of the floriate cross, hearts and hands and the circular devices to the left of the cross and the right of St. George.
At first there were many conflicting theories on the origin or purpose of the cave, one being that it was associated with the Lady Roisia who gave the town its name. Mainly because of investigations by Sylvia Beamon, author of the book "The Royston Cave, used by Saints or Sinners?" we now know that it was the work of the Knights Templar.
In 1964 the Cave, Grade 1 listed by English Heritage, was leased from the then owners by Royston Town Council who installed the railings and lighting. Volunteer members of the Royston and District Local History Society act as guides at weekends during the summer months. The whole surface of the lower part of the cave is covered with names cut by visitors, a result of the uncontrolled access to the cave before the time when Royston Town Council took over the cave and installed the railings to prevent visitors touching the soft carvings.
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